When it came time to plan our tenth wedding anniversary, I asked my husband where he wanted to go. Literally anywhere in the world. Bruce, who is an avid reader of Ian Fleming, said, “You know, I’ve always wanted to go to GoldenEye and see where Ian Fleming wrote the Bond novels.” So he got to work making a list of James Bond sites to see while I got to work planning our trip to Jamaica.

A Hideaway You’d Drive Straight Past

GoldenEye has long been known as a secret hideaway for the rich and famous looking to get away from the masses. Upscale, but not over the top — think rustic-chic rather than modern luxury.

It’s a good two and a half hour drive from Montego Bay, and you’d drive right past the stone gate entrance unless your driver knew where they were going, because there’s no signage out front at all. That’s on purpose, so guests can holiday without the paparazzi following them around.

The Original Fleming Villa

The original villa is Ian Fleming’s own three-bedroom house, built in the 1950s, with its own private pool and beach area. Two additional one-bedroom cottages have been added to make a five-bedroom estate, complete with a garage converted into a game room. Fully staffed, it makes a private retreat ideal for a small wedding or a family group traveling together.

The main house is filled with photographs and treasures from Fleming’s time there. For anyone who knows the novels, it’s remarkable how much of the place turns up in the books.

The Lagoon Cottages and Beachfront Villas

The property next door was purchased by Chris Blackwell in the 1980s and expanded into the GoldenEye resort as it is today. With a handful of lagoon-facing cottages and direct beachfront villas, it has always suited families, or groups of friends and couples getting away together.

The larger one and two-bedroom villas have a private lounge, kitchenette, patio, and air conditioning — everything you might need to unwind, unplug, or write that next bestselling novel.

The Beach Huts

The Beach Hut section sits at the other end of the resort: roughly 20 stand-alone huts on stilts, arranged in about three rows back from the sea. This area has its own small cove beach, Button Beach, with a beach bar and water sports access.

Be aware that the huts are not all beachfront. Only a handful face the sea directly; the majority sit one or two rows back with limited views. What makes them desirable is that they’re built for two, which means GoldenEye is no longer only a haven for large parties. The huts have made the resort a genuine option for couples who want a rustic-chic retreat, and it’s emerged as a lovely honeymoon spot.

Aesthetically they’re beautiful. Rich dark mahogany, jalousie windows with no screens, ceiling fans, and a romantic mosquito-net-draped queen bed, plus a private patio and outdoor rain shower. They’re designed for a natural feel and a total escape. Each hut is assigned a mobile phone at check-in to reach the lounge or restaurant.

I found it funny that while there are no landlines, clocks, or air conditioning, each hut does have a flat-screen TV. We didn’t turn ours on once in three days, though we did make use of the Wi-Fi, which reaches throughout the property.

Two Things to Know Before You Book

There’s a lot of walking. There’s a small pool and a clubhouse with a bar and game room near the Beach Huts, but the main restaurant, Gazebo, is up near the lobby, and Bizot Bar sits in the middle of the property near the main pools. If you’re staying in a beach hut, expect to cover that ground often. We didn’t mind during the day, but after dinner the pathways are dark and rocky, and we used the flashlights on our phones to get back. I’m rather clumsy and need to watch where I’m going, so this may not trouble more sure-footed travelers at all.

There’s noise from next door. On the far side of the beach hut section is a dock and bar not affiliated with the hotel. Nobody wanders over to bother you, but boats come and go constantly and there’s loud music much of the day. Not ideal if you’re picturing total quiet in your hut. Happily, walk into the heart of the resort and there are plenty of hidden nooks to sit with a book or soak up the sun.

Dining at GoldenEye

GoldenEye is not a traditional all-inclusive. Meal plans are available, from breakfast only up to a full meal and beverage plan. Given the location, I do recommend a meal plan unless you have a rental car and plan to explore on your own — Ocho Rios is about twenty minutes away.

Meals are served at one of two restaurants: Gazebo, which serves international cuisine, and Bizot Bar, which leans Caribbean with traditional Jamaican dishes. Bizot runs theme nights — sushi on Fridays, jerk barbecue on Saturdays — which is a nice way to change things up if you’re staying a full week.

We ate most of our meals on property and the food was always top notch. The service is a bit slow, but the staff are so warm and welcoming, which is really a trademark of the Jamaican people. It’s a good reminder that you’re in Jamaica to relax. Slow down and enjoy that vodka martini — shaken, not stirred.

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Ready for your own Bond-themed escape or a romantic hideaway in one of the beach huts? Get in touch and we’ll plan it for you. You might also like our guide to top romantic vacation destinations for couples, or read about Jamaica Inn in Ocho Rios, where we finished the same trip.