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Travel By Darcy

Creating Memorable Vacations Since 1996

Trip Report

A weekend in Napa

Serenity pool at Calistoga Ranch

The Napa Valley has always had a special place in my heart. One of my first dates with my now husband was wine tasting in the valley including a behind-the-scenes tour at Mondavi winery. We love the area so much that we got married in Yountville so it was only natural that we decided to revisit the Napa Valley for our five-year anniversary this summer.

The Napa Valley is made up of several towns along hwy 29 and the Silverado trail and there are dozens of choices when deciding where to lay your head in the Napa Valley from small inns, hotels, resorts and private homes.    For our two-day food & wine themed getaway we opted to stay at the newly renovated Hotel Yountville in Yountville.  This turned out to be a great choice for us as we love the restaurants in Yountville and it is convenient for visiting the wineries nearby. Since we have been to the Napa area several times before we really wanted to do something different. Beyond the more popular wineries Napa is known for.

We started our day with coffee and pastries at Bouchon Bakery (www.bouchonbakery.com), Thomas Keller’s famous boulangerie which has ridiculously delicious French pastries. It’s a tiny bakery and very popular with tourists and locals alike so expect to see lines out the door.  Trust me, it’s completely worth it (try the fresh bread and macarons!). Once we were loaded up and back in the car we enjoyed a leisurely drive up the valley on hwy 29 towards St Helena.

Our next stop – the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St Helena (www.ciachef.edu). Beyond being a famous culinary school, the CIA offers a great visitors experience that is not to be missed with a variety of cooking classes and a wonderful on site restaurant with meals prepared by the students. Our visit this time included a course on chocolate at the Flavor Bar. We spent 20min learning all about different types of chocolate (and of course sampling) – tasty and educational! We then enjoyed a behind-the-scenes tour by a culinary student who not only shared with us the interesting history behind the buildings that now house the school but she shared her enthusiasm and passion for food that made us want to definitely make time for a real cooking class on our next visit.

At this point it was well after noon and time to hit the wineries! We decided to focus on visiting a few of the more boutique wineries that the valley is becoming more well known for. One of the main benefits in my opinion of visiting with the smaller wineries is that their tasting staff are usually so much more friendly and knowledgeable. They take the time to tell you their story and teach you about the wines you’re enjoying.

Almost directly across from the CIA we stopped in at Markham Vineyards (www.markhamvineyards.com). One of the oldest continuous wineries in the valley this hidden gem is run by just 24 employees and produces some rather fabulous wines. Known for their estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon they continuously win awards year after year.  After a thorough tour we had the opportunity to meet with winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls who was kind enough to share a bit of the science behind making wines. Having married into a farm family (my husbands family runs a dairy farm in NH), I had the general concept of planting and harvesting. However I never stopped to think about all the elements involved in making wine from considering the many climate changes in the valley within such a small area, soil conditions, vine growing patterns and even how you prune the vines can help shape what your fruit will taste like.  Very educational! While Markham Vineyards does not typically offer winemaker classes, several other boutique wineries are expanding their tours to include special themed weekends and/or classes that are definitely worth looking into if you are a budding wine connoisseur.

After Markham, we cut over to the Silverado trail and on to Hall Rutherford (www.hallwines.com). One of three locations in the valley, this location is by appointment only and typically reserved for special events and groups.  Located majestically in the hills we were treated to breathtaking views of the vineyards and valley on arrival.  One of more unique features is their 14,000 square feet of caves made from handmade, imported Austrian brick which displays the owners magnificent personal art collection.  For private parties and groups this is the ideal location for a private wine tasting experience.  We also found out that they will arrange for private vineyard picnic at one of their other locations.  What a romantic idea and another note for our next trip!

After an exhausting but wonderful afternoon we decided to head back to the hotel to freshen up for dinner. The Hotel Yountville (http://www.hotelyountville.com) is an 80 room boutique hotel that draws inspiration from Tuscany, Provence and the Napa Valley. I definitely felt the contemporary European vibe. The lobby has a lot of historic elements but done with dark contemporary colors and fixtures. The rooms are definitely more Californian with an airy spa feel. This is not your traditional hotel.  The rooms are spread out among several buildings and on site amenities include a spa, pool, restaurant and lobby bar.  We only experienced the continental breakfast at the Hopper Creek Kitchen which was just OK. The hotel was very comfortable and well priced for the area. Another nice feature are the complimentary bike rentals. We would definitely go back. Rates start at $265 per night.

We had dinner reservations at Michael Chiarello’s restaurant – Bottega (www.botteganapavalley.com).  Being the foodies we are we couldn’t wait to sample the southern Italian cuisine Chef Chiarello is known for. The restaurant treated us to a tasting menu not usually available for individual guests (you can however reserve the chefs table for 12 on Friday or Saturday nights and have this arranged). Words can not adequately describe dish after dish of deliciousness.  Hands down our favorites for the night included the braised short ribs and creamy polenta (I’m getting hungry all over again thinking about it) and the chocolate volcano cake which is not on the menu, you just have to know to ask for it.  The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and definitely a must-do during your stay in the Napa Valley. Another of our favorites is another Thomas Keller restaurant – Ad Hoc (www.adhocrestaurant.com), also in Yountville. Open for dinner and offering a different set menu each night, reservations are recommended. You can check out their website to see what is being served that evening before calling for reservations.

As you can probably tell we had a jam-packed two days in the Napa Valley.  If you’ve not yet been you may not realize how much there is to do in the valley besides wine tasting.  There are plenty of outdoor activities from bike riding, hot air ballooning to horseback riding. You can easily eat your way through the valley at some of the best restaurants in the world. Or enjoy a few relaxing days at the spa. Whatever your desire, the Napa Valley is a perfect retreat for all types of travelers. Feel free to contact me for ideas!

Hiding away in the valley

North Block Hotel (formerly Hotel Luca)
New 20 room hotel in Yountville.  Rooms are housed in two main buildings and offer either a patio or balcony overlooking the central courtyard. Rooms are spacious and many offer fireplaces.  On site amenities include a restaurant and bar, small 4 treatment room spa and pool. Located at the end of Washington Street within walking distance to shops and restaurants.

Bardessono
California’s first LEED Platinum Hotel, this 62 room hotel is a true hideaway in the heart of the Napa Valley offering spacious spa themed rooms. With rich dark earth tones, many suites feature outdoor showers and soaking tubs. Wonderful spa resort for a romantic getaway.  Relaxing roof top pool and on site restaurant that serves farm fresh, locally sourced organic ingredients (very Californian!).  Complimentary bikes for exploring the area.

Calistoga Ranch
For those looking for the ultimate spa retreat, look no further.  Located at the base of the hills in the Napa Valley, the Calistoga Ranch is tucked away with minimal signage to protect their hidden oasis. Offering 48 free standing guest lodges, each room is comprised of two cabins – a bedroom and indoor/outdoor living space.  Protection of the environment was key in planning the layout of the ranch and not one tree was removed in the building of the accommodations which are plush and luxurious.  Calistoga Ranch is known for their wellness programs, spa treatments and Californian spa cuisine.

This is only one of many trips I’ve taken to the Napa Valley. Contact me today to tailor your dream vacation to one of the top wine & spa regions in the world!

Family Vacation in Grand Cayman

Caribbean Club, Grand Cayman

This sand snob found a new favorite in Grand Cayman.  Not being divers I wasn’t sure what my family would do on a recent trip to Grand Cayman. Grand Cayman is flat, over developed, expensive (everything is imported), definitely not my cup of tea. Or so I thought…

As a travel professional I often feel pressured to see and do as much as possible. Afterall, our greatest tool for planning exceptional escapes is our first hand experience. Sometimes I run around so much that I feel like I need a vacation from my vacation! On Grand Cayman I was able to enjoy a guilt-free beach holiday. After 2-3 days of exploring the island, I had pretty much seen it all so could enjoy the rest of my time soaking up the sun with the family.

Where to sleep…

We spent the first few nights at Coral Stone Club. A small, independently owned condominium complex on Seven Mile Beach (SMB) with 32 three bedroom, 3 bath units available to rent on a daily basis. Located in three, three-story buildings, each of these 1800 square foot units have the same layout and offer views of the ocean.  A few things to take note – because these units are all individually owned you’ll find the décor, bedding and kitchen amenities vary.  Unlike some of the larger condo complexes here, you can select and book a specific unit at Coral Stone Club. For families with small children I recommend selecting a ground floor unit. We found this incredibly helpful when our young son was taking a nap, I could still sit on our terrace with a book, see the ocean and still be within earshot. For those looking for a quieter location, select a top floor unit which have vaulted ceilings and unobstructed ocean views. This is a true self-catering condo complex and the staff is virtually non-existent. When we arrived on a Saturday one of the housekeepers let us in the unit with the instructions to check-in at the desk on Monday.  I also didn’t find the staff at the front desk all the insightful when I asked for their personal recommendations on things to see & do.  Keep in mind though that the majority of people staying here are either owners or vacationers that have been coming for years. Hanging out by the pool is the thing to do in the afternoon as the owners come together like long-lost friends and welcome us new timers. They are the real wealth of information with insider tips on things to see and experience while in Grand Cayman.  We stayed in unit # 5 which we found to be very cozy and well-appointed. You could tell the owners are here frequently as there was every kitchen utensil and gadget imaginable available. You might find it odd that I was so impressed with that but if you’re like me –  a person who frequently stays in condos or private homes with extended family you’ll appreciate that. We also appreciated the screened in porch and spent a lot of time here enjoying meals and playing games. The grocery store is across the road within walking distance and you can feel free to bring the cart back to the unit. The store will send staff later in the day to collect the carts from the neighboring condo properties. The real highlight here I think is the beach. Coral Stone Club enjoys an incredibly wide, clear section of beach with just the right balance of natural tree shade and beach loungers. I would recommend a stay at Coral Stone Club in a heartbeat for families looking for an upscale-yet-down-home  beachfront vacation. This would also be a great spot for 2-3 couples to share a unit and enjoy a relaxing holiday. Rates start at $695 per night.  Plan your visit in the summer months and receive your 6th night free!

Our next stop was the Caribbean Club just a few doors down. If you’ve been to Grand Cayman you may recall the Caribbean Club of old which was made up of several cozy beach and garden cottages. After hurricane Ivan the new owners completely tore down and rebuilt three luxurious towers bringing a whole new level of luxury to SMB. Having spent several days at Coral Stone Club where I felt the accommodations were already quite nice, I did not expect the opulence of Caribbean Club. Separated into three towers that are in U shape facing the ocean, all units are huge at 2500 square feet with three bedrooms and three baths and very richly appointed.  Caribbean Club operates more like a hotel in that they do have full staff with daily maid service, concierge and room service available. Their on-site restaurant and bar Ristorante Luca serves up a delectable mix of Italian cuisine and fresh seafood and is a great spot to enjoy music in the evenings. Each of the units are individually owned and decorated and feature a large verandah facing either the pool or ocean. Because of the layout of the property if you are in a pool view unit, be prepared to be right on top of your neighbors. Not much privacy to be found here when all units basically face each other. The ground floor ocean front villa suites are particularly fantastic as you literally walk 4 steps off the verandah and have your toes in the sand. Our particular unit was very luxurious but not as personalized or that child friendly (think glass tables and plenty of breakables).  Overall we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Caribbean Club and I would recommend this property for those traveling with older children, young adults or several couples looking for luxury accommodations with a bit more options in the way of dining and entertainment. Rates start at $650 per night in low season for a Tower ocean suite.

Another great option is the more moderate Lacovia complex in lower SMB. Closer to George Town, this complex resembles more of an apartment building with ample parking, a garden pool in the center of the complex and a range of accommodations from 1-2 bedroom units with either garden, pool or ocean views. Each unit is individually owned and decorated with some units very moderate and updated and others…not so much. Each unit we saw was very clean, comfortable and included all the amenities one would expect of a rental.  What makes Lacovia such an appealing option I think is the quiet atmosphere, fantastic beachfront location and price. One bedroom units start at just $290 per night in low season which for this quality of accommodation in Grand Cayman is a good deal. Great option for couples, families or single travelers looking for a place to escape it all.

Also worth mentioning is the Ritz Carlton Grand Cayman. The only five diamond resort on the island and the best choice if you are looking for a full service resort.  With consistent Ritz Carlton services and amenities this resort offers a full service spa (consistently ranked in the top 2 in the Caribbean) and several of the best restaurants on the island. Even if you don’t stay at the Ritz, make plans for dinner at 7 Prime Cuts & Sunset or BLUE by Eric Ripert which offers fine dining and a romantic atmosphere. It is important to note that the main hotel is located across the street from the beach so if you book garden or resort view rooms, you’ll need to walk to the beach by way of their air bridge. They do have an oceanfront tower right on the beach which is what I would recommend if your budget allows. This is the best option for honeymooners looking for luxury. Rates start at $299 per night in low season with 5th night free. Oceanfront rooms start at $579 per night.

Must do’s in Grand Cayman:

  • Rent a car and explore the coastal areas outside of the congestion of George Town and SMB. You’ll find small communities, beautiful coastal scenery and historic sites such as Pedro St. James Castle that are worth a visit. Note: Caymanians drive on the left side of the road. If you’re not comfortable driving, book a tour or higher a driver through one of the many local tour companies.
  • Garden lovers will enjoy the Queen Elizabeth II Botantical Park
  • Escape the crowds and snorkel off of Cemetery Reef located north of SMB in the West End
  • Experience Boatswain’s Beach, a 23 acre marine park and turtle farm. The kids will love it!
  • Go underwater with Atlantis Submarine. A great way to see the expansive ocean life for non-divers! Departs from George Town
  • Take the time to learn more about Grand Cayman’s past at the Cayman Islands National Museum in George Town

 

Recommended Restaurants:

  • 7 Prime Cuts & Sunset. Fine dining steakhouse located at the Ritz Carlton. For a romantic evening, make reservations for sunset and request a table on the patio. Open for dinner only and reservations are highly recommended.
  • Reef Grill at the Palms. Surprising find located on the beach offering Contemporary American cuisine. I recommend a table in the upstairs open air section where you can still enjoy the music from downstairs but take advantage of the ocean breezes and spectacular views.
  •  Luca @ The Caribbean Club. Upscale, modern Italian & seafood restaurant with great food, music and lively atmosphere.
  • Chicken Chicken! Affordable and convenient family restaurant serving Island cuisine family style.
  • Order in! If you’re staying in a condo on SMB and don’t feel like cooking or going out at night get delivery! Order from some of the most popular restaurants in Grand Cayman and have them delivered by way of www.finedinein.com for a $6 delivery charge plus gratuity.

 

Contact me to plan your next vacation to Grand Cayman!

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About Me

I’ve come nose-to-nose with a giraffe during an African safari. I’ve strolled along the ancient pathways of Machu Picchu. I’ve honeymooned in the Australian Outback. I’ve stayed in villas, enjoyed all-inclusive vacations, and gone on cruises and escorted bus tours. Collectively, these experiences—and many, many more—add up to a pretty impressive travel resume but, more importantly, they make me a great choice for your go-to travel agent. Read More…

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